Men’s 1953 Gruen Curvex with Disc Lugs

One of Gruen's most revolutionary contributions to horology came in 1935 with the introduction of the Gruen Curvex, a watch that stood apart in an era when most wristwatches had round or rectangular cases. What made the Curvex truly innovative was its uniquely curved case and curved movement, designed to conform to the shape of the wearer's wrist. Gruen's engineers developed a movement that followed the contour of the case, allowing for a larger and more powerful movement without increasing the thickness of the watch.

The Curvex was marketed as a high-end, luxury watch and became a status symbol, especially among professionals and celebrities of the era. Gruen's Art Deco aesthetic, sleek lines, and curved design made it one of the most fashionable and desirable watches of its time.

By Mid-Century, Gruen had a few curves left on the drawing board. For example, this fabulous 36mm by 25mm Gruen Curvex, circa early '50s, combines both sweeping curves and angular lines, a testament to the brand’s innovative spirit. The curved movement — a technical achievement in watchmaking — follows the case's natural arc, allowing the watch to sit comfortably on the wrist while maintaining its slim profile.

The restored quadrant eggshell dial with gold Gothic numerals is truly impressive, while the sub-seconds dial provides a nod to the post-industrial "Metropolis" look. This model features the original crystal and a coin-edged Gruen-marked crown, while its oversized "disc" lugs highlight the yellow gold-filled case, giving it both style and durability.

Snap open its un-engraved back, and you’ll find yet another prize: a completely original 440 caliber Gruen Precision Curvex movement, hand-assembled and marked "Seventeen 17 Jewels/440/Gruen Watch Co./Curvex Precision Pat/Switzerland." This level of precision and craftsmanship cemented Gruen's place among the leading luxury watchmakers of the time.

We've taken the liberty of cleaning, oiling, and timing the watch, ensuring it's ready for a day at the office or an evening out. Additionally, we've fitted the watch with a period N.O.S. strap and matching gold-tone buckle, all packaged in the original Gruen factory double boxes with tag, a true testament to the good taste of the wearer.

We love our overseas buyers, but if the watch is purchased outside the U.S., we must replace the strap with a leather one.